Purchase Chinese Herbs Articles & Resources

To use fresh herbs, you usually need only the leaves (discard the tough stems). To remove the leaves, run two fingers down the stem in the direction opposite from which the leaves grow. Don't worry about getting rid of the tender stems at the top; these will be chopped fine with the leaves. Occasionally, a recipe may call for a whole sprig, which means you should include the stem. Whole sprigs make a beautiful and simple garnish as well. Add fresh herbs during the last 10 minutes of cooking.

When buying dried herbs, look for the leaf form instead of ground; the closer they are to their natural state, the more likely they are to retain their flavor. Purchase only small quantities and be sure to replace them every six months or so, because they tend to lose their aromatic oils over time. (A good test to see if a dried herb is still worth using is to smell it with your eyes closed; if you cannot tell what it is, toss it.) Avoid buying dried herbs from bulk bins, because they probably have been sitting on the shelf for several months.

Dried herbs are acceptable for long-cooking sauces, marinades or rubs, because then their flavors have more time to develop. Oregano, thyme, basil and mint are about the only herbs I ever use dried, and then only when fresh are unavailable. I particularly avoid dried parsley, chives, mixed herbs and "Italian seasonings," because they simply don't have enough flavor. When using dried herbs, be sure to crush them between your fingers to release their flavor; also, use half the amount specified for fresh herbs.

FLAVORFUL COMBINATIONS

Ethnic foods have never been more popular in this country, in large part because of their robust, complex flavors that come from a skillful use of herbs. One way for you to learn to use herbs successfully is to study the different herbs that typify various ethnicities. Following is a guide to a half-dozen different signature herbs of world cuisines. These are the flavors that make a dish typically Italian or undeniably French. Keep in mind that the goal here is to have fun with herbs. Experiment to find out which herbs you like with what foods. A failed experiment, after all, just means more compost for your garden. The only rule is to use a little herb at first, taste the dish, then add more if you like.

Italian cooking emphasizes rosemary, basil, oregano, garlic, Italian parsley, thyme and sage, which go well with beans, rice and, of course, pasta. These herbs can be used in any combination, but even on their own they'll provide hearty flavor. Rosemary is very aromatic and should be used sparingly; it's a pungent addition to vegetables, pastas and sauces. Sage is often used on its own with bean and potato dishes. A fresh tomato sauce can handle a good handful of fresh basil, thyme and rosemary, and a pizza or focaccia recipe is always more flavorful when enhanced with a sprinkling of thyme, rosemary or basil.

Thai food is one of my favorites and is fun to make because of the exotic ingredients, such as lemongrass, cellophane noodles and coconut milk. This cuisine tends to emphasize spices - especially chilies and curry pastes - more than herbs, but it does use a lot of cilantro, mint and occasionally basil. Use cilantro sparingly, until you're sure you and your audience like it. It's a very pungent herb, and seems to be one of those things people either love or hate; those who don't like cilantro often liken its flavor to soap. It is important to use fresh cilantro, never dried, because they have completely different flavors.

A popular cuisine with a lot of vegetarian dishes is Chinese, which features rice-based recipes. Ginger and garlic are almost always used, either alone or in combination; they augment the heat of the chilies and szechuan peppercorns often found in Chinese dishes. Fresh ginger and garlic complement each other well. Cilantro is part of this cuisine too, used mainly as a garnish or in sauces.

It's amazing how many ethnicities feature cilantro. Mexican food just wouldn't be the same without it, and in fact, this is the one herb that's featured in this cuisine, which tends to emphasize the use of chilies (garlic also is used to a lesser degree). Guacamole's pungency comes from fresh cilantro, and you can enhance a taco with the herb as well.

French Cuisine is full of herbs, such as tarragon, rosemary, thyme, parsley, chives, marjoram, chervil and mint. This cuisine is similar to Italian in that you can use the herbs in virtually any combination. French vegetarian dishes tend to emphasize beans, especially lentils; you also can make the classic French omelette, which is a plain omelette filled with fines herbes, or chopped parsley, chervil, chives and tarragon.

Middle Eastern food is popular among vegetarians because of its emphasis on grain, bean and eggplant dishes. Typical herbs include garlic, mint, parsley, rosemary and cilantro. If you experiment with combinations of these herbs, avoid combining two pungent flavors, such as rosemary and cilantro, because they will clash. Grain dishes are best prepared with mint, parsley and garlic, while beans are often cooked with rosemary or garlic. Main dishes such as eggplant casserole or chickpea fritters (known as falafel) feature parsley, garlic and sometimes mint. Parsley, by the way, is an underrated herb that can enhance the flavor of other herbs. I recommend using Italian flat-leaf parsley, rather than curly parsley; its far superior flavor will change your view of parsley.

To start your experiments, I've provided some recipes that emphasize different herbs. For more ideas, check out the cookbooks listed in "Resources, " p. 91.

Fusilli with Artichokes,

Capers and Sun-Dried

Tomatoes

This dish features the flavors of italy.

1 lb. fusilli pasta 3 Tbs. olive oil 3 small red onions, thinly sliced Salt and pepper to taste 15-oz. can artichokes, rinsed well, drained and sliced 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs. lemon juice 3/4 cup white wine 12 sun-dried tomatoes, rehydrated and sliced 3 Tbs. rinsed capers 2 Tbs. chopped fresh thyme 6 Tbs. chopped fresh basil Grated Parmesan (optional)

Cook pasta according to package directions. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, salt and pepper; saute 2 minutes. Add artichokes, garlic and lemon juice; cook 5 minutes more. Add wine; cook until pan is almost dry, 5 to 7 minutes.

Scoop out 1/4 cup pasta water; add to skillet along with sun-dried tomatoes, capers, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, thyme and basil. Cook until tomatoes are warmed through, about 3 minutes. Drain pasta, add to skillet and toss. Sprinkle with Parmesan if desired. Serves 4.

PER SERVING: 565 CAL.; 17G PROT.; 12G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 94G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 793MG SOD.; 10G FIBER. VEGAN/LACTO

Mushrooms with

Mint and Lemon

This Middle Eastern dish produces quite a bit of liquid that you drain before serving; save these juices to make a flavorful soup stock.

3 Tbs. olive oil 1/4 cup vegetable stock 1 lb. mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced 1 lb. portobello or crimini mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and diced 1/4 cup lemon juice 1 Tbs. minced fresh mint Salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil and stock in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and garlic; cover and simmer until soft and brown, 8 to 9 minutes. Add tomato; cook 1 minute more. Stir in lemon juice, mint, salt and pepper; remove from heat. Drain and serve at room temperature. Serves 4. PER SERVING: 161 CAL.; 5G PROT.; 11G TOTAL FAT (2G SAT. FAT); 14G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 151 MG SOD.; 3G FIBER. VEGAN

Beet Salad with Scallions

The herbs in this dish give it a French twist.

1 lb. beets 4 scallions, thinly sliced 1/4 cup lemon juice 2 Tbs. olive oil 1/4 cup minced fresh mint Salt and pepper to taste 4 lettuce leaves

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Trim greens from beets; place beets on cookie sheet. Roast until tender when pricked with a fork, 45 to 60 minutes.

Peel and quarter beets; shred in food processor and transfer to a serving bowl. Add remaining ingredients and toss. Chill and serve on top of lettuce leaves. Serves 4.

PER SERVING: 118 CAL.; 2G PROT.; 7G TOTAL FAT (1G SAT. FAT); 14G CARB.; 0 CHOL.; 223MG SOD.; 2G FIBER. VEGAN