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In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 to 3 quarts water to a boil. Add fettuccine and boil, stirring occasionally to separate noodles, until barely tender to bite, 2 to 3 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, in a wide, shallow bowl, combine olive oil, chives, parsley, oregano, lemon peel, lemon juice, and pepper. 3. Drain pasta, reserving 1/3 cup cooking water. Pour hot pasta into bowl with herb mixture. Gently lift with two spoons to mix, adding salt to taste and as much of the reserved pasta cooking water to moisten as desired. Per serving: 345 cal., 42% (144 cal.) from fat; g protein; 16 g fat ( g sat.); 43 g carbo (2 g fiber); 23 mg sodium; 55 mg chol. 9 essential herbs for a kitchen garden * Basil (Ocimum basilicum). Sometimes referred to as the king of herbs (the name is derived from basileus, which is Greek for king), basil has fragrant, bright green leaves on 6-inch-to 2-foot-tall plants. Annual. All zones. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: 'Finissino Verde A Palla' bush basil, 'Italian Pesto', 'Lettuce Leaf', 'Mammoth Sweet', 'Mrs. Burns' Lemon Basil', 'Profuma di Genova', 'Red Rubin', 'Sweet Basil'. GROWING TIP: Basil thrives when the soil is warm and nighttime temperatures are above 60[degrees], so don't rush springtime planting. To encourage branching on young seedlings, cut back stems to just above the first set of leaves when plants have developed three pairs of leaves. HARVEST TIP: Prune often to avoid flower formation. When a stem has developed four pairs of leaves, cut each stem down to just above the first set. Continue cutting plants back throughout the summer, or set out new seedlings in succession a month or so apart and harvest the entire plant for pesto. USES: Eggs, fish, marinades, meats, pastas, pestos, salads, soups, stews, and tomatoes. * Chives (Allium). Green, grasslike, 12- to 24-inch-long spears form in clumps. Clusters of rose purple or white flowers in spring. Perennial. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: Chives (A. schoenoprasum); all zones. Chinese or garlic chives (A. tuberosum); zones 1-24, H1-H2. GROWING TIP: Increase the number of plants by dividing in winter every two years or so. HARVEST TIP: Gather chives by snipping the spears to the ground (otherwise you'll have unsightly brown foliage mixed in with the green). USES: Butters, cheeses, eggs, lamb, mayonnaise, potatoes, rice, salads, sauces, seafood, soups, sour cream, stews, and vegetables. * Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum). Bright green leaves on foot-tall stems look similar to flat-leafed parsley. Cilantro refers to the leaves; the seeds are called coriander. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: Grow types that are slow to bolt (go to seed), which are labeled as such or sold as a variety called 'Slow-Bolt'. GROWING TIP: Gilantro grows best in cool weather. Plant in early spring after last frost (autumn in the low desert). If practical, start from seed; cilantro has a taproot and transplants poorly Plant in succession every few weeks through summer. Once it goes to seed, the flavor changes. HARVEST TIP: Gut off leaves as needed. Harvest the entire plant before it starts to flower. USES: Beans, curries, fish, lamb, Mexican dishes, pork, poultry, salads, salsas, sauces, shellfish, and stir-fries. * Oregano (Origanum). Shrubby plant with 1 1/2-inch-long leaves grows 2 to 3 feet tall. Perennial. Zones vary. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: Greek (O. vulgare birtum) has gray green leaves; zones 8-9, 12-24. Italian (O. x majoricum) has milder bright green leaves; zones 4-24. GROWING TIP: Needs especially good drainage. Plants thrive on little to moderate water. HARVEST TIP: Oil is strongest when the plant is in bud but before flowers open. Gut back to 4 inches tall in late spring, summer, and fall. USES: Beans, cheeses, eggs, meats, pastas, salsas, sauces, soups, stews, and vegetables. * Parsley (Petroselinum). Flat or curly green leaves grow in clumps. Flat-leafed types grow 2 to 3 feet tall, curly types to 1 foot. Biennial often grown as an annual. All zones. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: 'Giant Italian' is best for cooking; the curly type ('Extra Curled' or 'Green River') is good as a garnish. * Lemon Thyme Vinegar (center, above). With a vegetable peeler, pare a thin Spiral strip of peel 6 to 8 inches long from a lemon. With a chopstick or wooden skewer, push lemon peel and 6 rinsed sprigs (each 3 in. long) fresh thyme into a clean 12- to 16- ounce bottle. Fill bottle with white wine vinegar (vinegar should cove herbs completely) and seal. Store in a cool, dark place at least 1 week or up to 4 months. VARIATIONS * Lemon Verbena Vinegar (left). Follow recipe for Lemon Thyme Vinegar (preceding), except replace the thyme with 2 or 3 sprigs (each 6 to 8 in. long) lemon verbena; omit peel, if desired. * Purple Basil Vinegar (right). Follow recipe for Lemon Verbena Vinegar (preceding), but replace verbena with 2 or 3 sprigs (each 4 to 6 in. long) purple or opal basil. Omit lemon peel. Tips for buying herbs To choose the right variety, use the sniff test When you shop for herbs, keep in mind that within each group--oregano or rosemary, for instance--fragrances differ widely. Some oreganos are mild, almost scentless, and not great for cooking, while others are pungent and flavorful. Rosemaries, on the other hand, can be strong and piney or have a sweet, gingery taste. Since flavor preferences vary, the best way to know if the aroma of a certain herb appeals to you is to give the plant a touch and sniff test. When shopping at the nursery, gently run your fingers over the foliage (don't hurt the plant), then sniff them. If you like the fragrance, buy the plant. Keep in mind that plantings are never permanent. If you don't like the flavor of a certain herb after growing it and cooking with it, you can always remove the plant and try another variety. Buying herbs by mail is another matter; there's no opportunity to sniff the foliage before the plant arrives on your doorstep. The varieties listed under "9 essential herbs," our favorites, can help you get started. This two-tiered container garden holds a selection of basic herbs. Trailers and fillers--chives, oregano (not shown), rosemary (which stays small in a pot), and thyme--tumble over the edges of the bottom pot (about 24 inches wide). Dwarf, purple, and sweet basils grow in the top pot (about 16 inches wide), with thyme filling in around the edges. To keep potted herbs healthy, fertilize and water them regularly. How many plants? Use this list as a guideline, adjusting the number to reflect your preferences. If you love to cook with basil, set out six plants to start with, then add more several weeks later to extend the harvest season. * Basil, four to six plants * Chives, three to four plants * Cilantro, two to three plants * Oregano, two plants * Parsley, one to three plants * Rosemary, one to two plants * Sage, one to two plants * Sweet marjoram, two to three plants * Thyme, three to four plants Mail-order sources The herbs we list are available in well-stocked nurseries. But for large selections, order by mail from the following sources. Mountain Valley Growers, 38325 Pepperweed Rd., Squaw Valley, CA 93675; .com or (559) 338-2775. Sells herb plants. Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 Old Salem Rd. NE, Albany, OR 97321; (800) 422-3985, (541) 928-9280, or .com Sells plants and seeds. Renee's Garden, (888) 880-7228 or .com. Sells seeds. Territorial Seed Company, Box 158, Cottage Grove, OR 97424; (541) 9429547 or .com. Sells plants and seeds. GROWING TIP: Start new plants each year. In mild-winter climates, plant in fall or early spring (provide partial shade in hot climates); in cold climates, plant in spring after last frost. HARVEST TIP: Pick outside leaves so the center of the plant continues to develop new ones. USES: Bouquets garnis, cheese sauces, pestos, soups, stews, stuffings, vegetables, and as a garnish. * Rosemary (Rosmarinus). Short, narrow green leaves with grayish white undersides grow on woody stems ranging from 1 to 6 feet tall. Perennial in zones 4--24, H1--H2. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: Some of the best varieties for cooking are 'Blue Spires', 'Gorizia', and 'Tuscan Blue'. Avoid rosemary plants with strong pine or turpentine undertones. 'Arp' is hardy to -10[degrees]. GROWING TIP: These are tough plants that take wind and salt spray, or inland heat if given moderate water. Too much fertilizer and water produce rank growth and woodiness. HARVEST TIP: Prune regularly to encourage new growth. USES: Beef, breads, cheeses, dressings, eggs, lamb, legumes, marinades, oils, potatoes, poultry, roasted game, seafood, soups, stews, stuffings, and vegetables. * Sage (Salvia officinalis). Shrubby plant from 1 to 3 feet tall with 2- to 3-inch-long leaves. Perennial. Zones 2-24, H1-H2. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: 'Berggarten' produces few or no flowers and is considered the best culinary type by herb professionals. For a milder flavor, grow S. officinalis, S. o. 'Icterina', or S. o. 'Purpurascens'. GROWING TIP: Keep plant on the dry side once established. Avoid planting near a lawn where the soil stays wet. Give afternoon shade in hot climates. HARVEST TIP: Cut just above where new growth emerges; don't cut into old, woody growth. USES: Apples, beans, breads, butters, cheeses, chowders, fish stock, game stuffings, gravies, lamb, marinades, pork, poultry, soups, stews, and tomatoes. Sweet marjoram (Origanum majorana). Oval gray green leaves on 1-to 2-foot-tall plants. Milder and more floral than oregano. Perennial in zones 8-24; annual elsewhere. GROWING TIP: Same as for oregano. HARVEST TIP: Same as for oregano. USES: Cheeses, eggs, fish, gravies, meats, pastas, poultry, rice, sauces, soups, stews, and vegetables. Thyme (Thymus). Small, pungent leaves grow on stems up to 1 foot tall. White to lilac flowers appear in late spring to early summer. Perennial. Zones 1-24. BEST CULINARY VARIETIES: English or common (T. vulgaris), French (T. vulgaris variety), golden lemon (T. x citriodorus 'Aureus'), and lemon (T. x citriodorus). GROWING TIP: Use as a low edging for vegetable or herb gardens. HARVEST TIP: For best flavor cut back before flowers appear. Hold foliage like a ponytail and shear it to about 6 inches tall. USES: Bouquets garnis, breads, casseroles, cheeses, eggs, fish, gains, marinades, meats, mushrooms, poultry, soups, stews, tomato- based sauces, and vegetables. RELATED ARTICLE: How to grow herbs The best place to grow herbs is near the kitchen, so you can easily duck outside to harvest them. If you don't have a convenient sunny spot in your garden, you can grow herbs in large containers and position them where the light is favorable. Sun: For the best flavor and the most growth, herbs need six hours of full midday sun; four hours is minimum for adequate growth. Soil: All of the herbs mentioned here grow best in slightly acidic soil (pH to ), but they'll also tolerate soil that's slightly alkaline. When growing them in the ground, provide loose, well-drained, moderately fertile soil. Dig in plenty of compost before planting. In containers, plant in a high-quality potting mix. Air circulation: To help prevent disease, allow enough space between plants for good air circulation. Fertilizer: For perennial herbs, mix an organic fertilizer (such as California Organics Fertilizer 7-5-7 available from Harmony Farm Supply & Nursery; 707/823-9125 or .com) into the soil in early spring. For annual herbs, follow the guidelines above but also fertilize with fish emulsion every time you cut the plants back. Herb cheese log On a 12- by 15-inch piece of plastic wrap, mix 1 tablespoon each minced fresh chives, fresh cilantro, and fresh basil leaves. Roll a 5[1/2]- to 6-ounce log of fresh chevre (goat) cheese in herb mixture to coat evenly. Set on a small rimmed plate or serving dish and drizzle with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Serve with baguette slices.
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