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The low-fat cook: Get inspiration for big flavor with little fat from this Hawaiian menu

Linda Lau Anusasananan

Easy spa supper

* A visit to a luxurious spa is like a sojourn in a cocoon: You emerge relaxed, refreshed, and a little hungry. After a green tea wrap, an aromatherapy massage, or a caviar facial, your putty-limp muscles can barely hold you up. You need a light meal to pamper your body, just as the treatment nourished your soul.

At JW Marriott Ihilani Resort and Spa at Ko Olina, on the western shore of Oahu in Hawaii, executive chef Randal Ishizu serves up bright-tasting dishes that restore guests' energy. Feasts like the one that follows have flavors so intense that no blissed-out spagoer would ever miss the fat.

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With the make-ahead steps in these recipes, it's easy to put together your own spa dinner. Now all you need is an on-call massage therapist to create your own resort at home.

Roasted Fish with Kabocha Coulis

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: If you don't have a nonstick frying pan with an ovenproof handle,
skip the browning step for the fish and simply bake it in a baking pan
for about 10 minutes. In Hawaii, the fish would be onaga; halibut is a
good alternative. Make Kabocha coulis before preparing fish; cover and
let stand. While soybeans cook (step 4), reheat coulis in a 3- to
4-quart pan over low heat, stirring occasionally, or in a microwave
oven at full power (100%), stirring occasionally

MAKES: 4 servings

 4 pieces (about 1 in. thick, 4 to 5 oz. each) boned, skinned
 halibut or other firm white-fleshed fish (see notes)
 About 1 tablespoon olive oil
 Salt and pepper
 6 ounces fresh shiitake or portabella mushrooms (or 3 oz. of each)
 1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
1/2 cup tomato sauce
 1 cup frozen shelled soybeans
 2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives or green onions

1. Rinse fish and pat dry; coat pieces with about 2 teaspoons olive oil. Sprinkle lightly all over with salt and pepper. Set a 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan with ovenproof handle over high heat; when hot, set fish in pan and cook until lightly browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Transfer pan with fish to a 350[degrees] regular or convection oven and bake until fish is barely opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 7 to 9 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, rinse and drain mushrooms; trim off and discard stems for shiitakes (tough stem ends only for portabellas). Cut mushrooms into 1/2 inch chunks.

4. In an 8-to 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat, stir mushrooms and garlic in 1 teaspoon oil until mushrooms are limp, about 5 minutes.

Add broth, tomato sauce, and soybeans; simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until soybeans are tender to bite, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon chives. Add salt and pepper to taste.

5. Mound a fourth of the soybean mixture in the center of each of four dinner plates. Top each mound with a piece of fish, pan-browned side up, and spoon Kabocha coulis equally around soybean mixture. Gently shake each plate to level coulis. Garnish fish with remaining tablespoon chives and scatter chopped basil over coulis if desired. Add more salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 471 cal., 29% (135 cal.) from fat; 46 g protein; 15 g fat (2 g sat.); 44 g carbo (10 g fiber); 296 mg sodium; 36 mg chol.

Kabocha Coulis

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: You can make the coulis up to 1 day ahead;
cover and chill. Thinned with chicken or vegetable broth,
it makes a delicious soup.

MAKES: About 3 cups; 4 servings

1 1/2 pounds Kabocha or butternut squash
 1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and chopped
 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger
 1 teaspoon olive oil
 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
 3/4 teaspoon curry powder
1 3/4 to 2 cups vegetable or fat-skimmed chicken broth
 Salt and pepper

1. Rinse squash and cut in half lengthwise (if necessary, use a mallet to gently pound knife through squash). Scoop out seeds and discard; with a small, sharp knife, pare peel and discard. Cut squash into 1-inch chunks; you should have about 4 cups.

2. In a 3- to 4-quart nonstick pan over medium-high heat, stir onion and ginger in olive oil until onion is very limp, 8 to 10 minutes. Add cumin and curry powder; stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 1 3/4 cups broth and the squash; bring to a boil, then cover, reduce heat, and simmer until squash is tender when pierced, 18 to 20 minutes.

3. In a blender or food processor, holding down lid with a towel, whirl squash mixture, in batches, until smooth. If sauce is thicker than desired, whirl in a little more broth. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 112 cal., 13% (14 cal.) from fat; g protein; g fat ( g sat.); 25 g carbo ( g fiber); 40mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Beet Carpaccio with Ginger-Miso Vinaigrette

PREP TIME: About 35 minutes

NOTES: To avoid staining your hands when preparing beets,
wear rubber gloves. Gold-colored shiro miso (the same used
for Japanese miso soup; also called light or white soybean paste)
is available with ethnic foods in some supermarkets and in
Asian grocery stores. You can make the vinaigrette and prepare
the beets (steps 1 and 2) up to 1 day ahead; cover
separately airtight and chill.

MAKES: 4 first-course servings

3/4 teaspoon dry mustard
 4 teaspoons lemon juice
 4 teaspoons honey
 4 teaspoons shiro miso (see notes) or soy sauce
 2 teaspoons salad oil
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
 2 beets (2 in. diameter, about 6 oz. each)
 3 cups salad mix (1 1/2 oz. total), rinsed and crisped
 Salt and pepper

1. In a small bowl, mix mustard with 4 teaspoons water until smooth; let stand 5 minutes. Whisk in lemon juice, honey, miso, oil, and ginger.

2. Trim and discard tops and root ends from beets. Scrub beets well, then pare peel with a vegetable peeler and discard. Using the vegetable peeler or a mandoline, slice beets paper thin. Arrange slices equally, slightly overlapping, in a ring on each of four salad plates.

3. In a bowl, mix 2 tablespoons ginger-miso vinaigrette with salad mix. Arrange greens equally in the center of beets. Drizzle remaining dressing over beets. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 84 cal., 30% (25 cal.) from fat; g protein; g fat ( g sat.); 14 g carbo (1 g fiber); 254 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

RELATED ARTICLE: Herb-infused Spa Water

In a 2- to 2 1/2-quart pitcher, combine 6 cups chilled still Spring or mineral water; 12 thin slices cucumber; 4 thin slices lemon; 4 sprigs (each 2 in. long) fresh mint, slightly crushed; and 2 sprigs (each 2 in. long) fresh rosemary, slightly crushed.

Serve, or cover and chill at least 2 hours or up to 8 hours. Add ice cubes just before serving. Makes about 1 1/2 quarts; about 4 servings.

Mango Sorbet with Litchis and Raspberries

PREP TIME: About 7 minutes

MAKES: 4 servings

Place 1 or 2 scoops (about 1/2 cup total) of mango or pineapple sorbet in each of four bowls or wineglasses. Garnish each serving with 3 or 4 drained chilled canned litchis and 3 or 4 rinsed fresh raspberries.

Per serving: 221 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; g protein: 0 g fat; 56 g carbo (2 g fiber); 23 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

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