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Garden to table basil: aromatic basils scent the air with licorice and anise, mint and lemon. This magical herb inspires us wherever we find it: in the garden, the market, and the kitchen

Stephen Exel

Basil is a glorious gift of the season.

Its fragrance livens the garden air; its flavors bring delight in the kitchen. As farmer's markets start to fill with varieties of basil, the plants beckon us to explore their distinctive looks and tastes. Green basils intrigue with their handsome leaves: tear-shaped Thai basil, delicate clusters of 'Spicy Globe,' glossy 'Genovese,' and burly lemon. The purple-hued plants hold their own attractions--the smoky color of 'Osmin' and the lovely, feminine 'Purple Ruffles.' Touch basil leaves and you'll find your hands perfumed with traces of cinnamon and clove to vanilla.

When the herb garden teeters on the fulcrum between the warmth of frost-free ground and initial planting, you'll want to grab several varieties from the garden center. Planted en masse, they'll add an element of adventure to your herb plot. Or consider planting basil with tomatoes, just as you would pair their bounty in the kitchen.

True to its tropical origins, basil thrives in the heat of summer and succumbs to the first fall freeze.

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Transplants set out too early in spring will sit in suspended animation until the weather heats up.

Space plants about one foot apart. Mulch to keep the soil moist. Variously flavored types of basil all share the same basic requirements: full sun, warm weather, and steady moisture.

Seeds are an economical alternative to transplants, especially when you're planting enough to share with friends and neighbors. Sow seeds directly in good garden soil after the frost-free date in spring, or give them a six-week head start on a sunny windowsill indoors. Compact varieties, such as 'Spicy Globe,' are suited to growing in containers.

Harvest the tips of stems frequently to keep basil bushy and actively growing. Some gardeners set out new transplants at monthly intervals; the leaves of plants that have been in the garden for several months or have flowered can taste bitter. Young leaves have the best flavor.

Snip off flowering buds, but don't discard them. Scatter them on salads and summer pastas. Or cut buds a small way down the stem and place in a vase. Snip the leaves as you need them.

Let the flavored varieties whet your appetite for creative cooking. Add lemon basil to your best tomato sauce, a handful of cinnamon basil to iced tea. Basil can serve as the foundation for myriad condiments. Beyond the classic style of pesto ('Genovese' is best for this), you can use lemon, 'Siam Queen,' cinnamon, 'Spicy Globe,' and 'Osmin' to create international versions of this favorite spread.

Spread Basil Rouille, a chunky garlicky sauce, or nut-and-licorice-flavored Basil-Walnut Cream Cheese on breads. Roasted, sauteed, and fried meats and vegetables will benefit from the kick of Purple Basil Vinaigrette or the velvety smoothness of Sweet Basil Mayonnaise. Guacamole takes a turn for the best when you stir in a generous amount of 'Genovese' basil. Cinnamon basil crisscrosses its way into savory-sweet Cinnamon Basil Dessert Pesto, an herbaceous complement to soft and cheddar cheeses, and buttery cookies such as shortbread.

Basil is best when it's used soon after snipping, otherwise the leaves may darken. To store a large amount of basil, stand the stems in water and do not refrigerate. Cut basil should last a couple of days. One thing you won't have to worry about, though, is supply. With an herb bed full of these gorgeous plants, you're bound to have plenty through the fall.

Basil Rouille

Rouille (ROO-ee) is a Provencal condiment that is stirred into stews and fish soups. It's a great spread too. Warning: Lotsa garlic!

START TO FINISH: 10 MINUTES

 1 cup snipped fresh basil
 1 small tomato, seeded and chopped
1/3 cup fine dry breed crumbs
 4 large cloves garlic, minced
 1 or 2 fresh small serrano or jalapeno chile
 peppers, seeded and diced *
 1 tsp. sea salt or salt
1/2 cup olive oil

1. In a medium bowl combine basil, tomato, bread crumbs,
garlic, chile peppers, and salt; mix well. Gradually stir in olive
oil; mix well. Cover and chill. To serve, bring to room temperature
and stir before serving. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

* NOTE: When handling hot chile peppers, wear plastic or rubber
gloves. If your bare hands do touch the chile peppers, wash
your hands well with soap and water.

EACH TABLESPOON: 46 cal., 5 g total fat (1 g sat. fat), 0 mg chol.,
96 mg sodium, 1 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro. Daily Values: 2%
vit. A, 2% vit. C, 1% calcium, 1% iron.

Basil-Walnut Cream Cheese

In addition to a spread, this cream cheese is also wonderful slightly warmed and sliced atop a vinaigrette salad.

START TO FINISH: 15 MINUTES

 1 8-0z. pkg. cream cheese, softened
1/4 cup butter, softened
1/2 cup snipped fresh basil
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
 1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
 1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper
1/4 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1. In a medium mixing bowl beat cream cheese and butter with
an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth. Stir in basil,
walnuts, vinegar, garlic, red pepper, salt, and black pepper until
well combined. Serve immediately or cover and chill up to
3 days. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

EACH TABLESPOON: 60 cal., (3 g total fat (3 g sat. fat), 16 mg chol.,
73 mg sodium, 1 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 1 g pro. Daily Values: 5%
vit. A, 1% calcium, 1% iron.

Basil Guacamole

Basil gives this chunky guacamole a fresh, balanced flavor.

START TO FINISH: 25 MINUTES

 2 ripe, medium avocados, halved, seeded, and peeled
3/4 cup snipped fresh basil
1/2 cup chopped seeded tomato
 2 Tbsp. chopped green onion
 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1/4 to 1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper or few drops bottled hot pepper sauce
Tortilla chips

1. In bowl mash avocado with a fork. Stir in basil, tomato, green
onion, lime juice, salt, and red pepper. Serve immediately with
tortilla chips. Makes about 2 cups.

EACH SERVING (2 TBSP.): 40 cal., 4 g total fat (1 g sat. fat),
0 mg chol., 40 mg sodium, 2 g carbo., 1 g fiber, 1 g pro. Daily
Values: 5% vit. A, 6% vit. C, 1% calcium, 2% iron.

Sweet Basil Mayonnaise

You can also make a version of this recipe by stirring
the basil, white pepper, and mustard into 1 cup of purchased
mayonnaise. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice to taste.

START TO FINISH: 15 MINUTES

1/2 cup snipped fresh basil
1/4 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. ground white pepper
1/8 tsp. dry mustard
1/4 cup refrigerated or frozen egg product, thawed
 1 Tbsp. lemon juice
3/4 cup salad oil
1/4 cup olive oil

1. In a food processor or blender combine 1/4 cup of
the basil, the salt, pepper, mustard, egg product, and
lemon juice. Cover and process or blend until combined.
Scrape down sides. Combine oils in a 1-cup glass measure.
With the machine running, add oils in a thin, steady
stream. Transfer mixture to a small bowl; stir in remaining
basil. Makes 1 1/4 cups.

EACH TABLESPOON: 98 cal., 11 g total fat (2 g sat. fat),
0 mg chol., 35 mg sodium, 0 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro.
Daily Values: 2% vit. A, 2% vit. C, 1% calcium, 1% iron.

Purple Basil Vinaigrette

START TO FINISH: 15 MINUTES

1/3 cup olive oil * or salad oil
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup snipped fresh purple basil or sweet basil
 1 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot
 1 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
 1 to 2 tsp. sugar
Salt and ground black pepper

1. In a screw-top jar combine oil, vinegar, basil, shallot, Parmesan
cheese, and sugar. Cover and shake well. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Serve immediately or cover and store in refrigerator
up to 3 days. Shake before serving. Makes about 3/4 cup.

* NOTE: If using olive oil, let vinaigrette stand at room temperature
for 15 to 20 minutes before using.

EACH SERVING (2 TBSP.): 113 cal., 12 g total fat (2 g sat. fat), 1 mg
chol., 64 mg sodium, 1 g carbo., 0 g fiber, 0 g pro. Daily Values:
2% vit. A, 1% vit. C, 1% calcium, 1% iron.

Cinnamon Basil Dessert Pesto

Serve this with a young Parmesan cheese, such as Grana
Podano; shortbread cookies; warm Brie; and/or assorted fruit.

START TO FINISH: 20 MINUTES

1/3 to 1/2 cup walnut oil
 2 cups firmly packed fresh cinnamon or sweet
 basil leaves
1/2 cup chopped almonds
1/2 cup flaked coconut
1/4 cup freshly grated Asiago cheese (1 oz.)
 2 tsp. raw sugar or packed brown sugar

1. In a food processor or blender combine 1/3 cup of the oil, the
basil, almonds, coconut, cheese, and sugar. Cover and process
or blend until nearly smooth, stopping and scraping sides as
necessary and adding enough remaining oil until of desired
consistency. If the pesto is not to be served immediately, divide
it into three portions. Place each portion in a small airtight
container. Refrigerate up to 24 hours or freeze up to 3 months.
Makes about 1 1/3 cups pesto.

EACH TABLESPOON: 70 cal., 6 g total fat (2 g sat. tat), 1 mg chol.,
24 mg sodium, 2 g carbo., 1 g fiber, 1 g pro. Daily Values: 3% vit.
A, 1% vit. C, 3% calcium, 1% iron.

GLOBAL PESTOS
Keep this chart handy for your bumper crop of flavored basils. We've
included two additional variations to the pestos pictured on page 211.

 CLASSIC
 GENOVESE THAI GREEK

BASIL

Start with 2 cups Genovese or Spicy Globe, Lemon, Mrs.
firmly packed Sweet Siam Queen, Burns Lemon
basil * or Thai

OIL

Measure 1/3 to Olive oil Sesame oil Olive oil
1/2 cup of oil (not toasted)

CHEESE

Add 1/2 cup Grated Parmesan Crumbled goat Crumbled feta
cheese or Romano cheese cheese

NUTS

Add 1/2 cup nuts Pine nuts Peanuts Substitute one
 2 1/4-oz. can
 sliced pitted
 olives,
 drained

SEASONINGS

Add the 3 or 4 cloves 1 tsp. finely 4 cloves gar-
seasonings garlic, peeled shredded lime- lic, peeled
 and quartered; peel; 1/2 tsp. and quartered;
 1/4 tsp. salt; crushed red 1/4 tsp. salt;
 1/8 tsp. ground pepper; 1/4 1/8 tsp.
 black pepper tsp. salt; ground black
 1/8 tsp. ground pepper
 black pepper

 INDIAN HARVEST

BASIL

Start with 2 cups Osmin, Red Rubin, Cinnamon, Osmin,
firmly packed or Purple Ruffles or Ruby Red
basil *

OIL

Measure 1/3 to Olive oil Walnut oil
1/2 cup of oil

CHEESE

Add 1/2 cup Shredded farmer Shredded white
cheese cheese Cheddar

NUTS

Add 1/2 cup nuts (no nuts required) Pumpkin seeds
 and/or chopped
 walnuts

SEASONINGS

Add the 2 Tbsp. finely 1/4 tsp. pumpkin pie
seasonings shredded orange or apple pie spice,
 peel; 1 tsp. ground 1/4 tsp. packed
 cumin; 1/4 tsp. salt; brown sugar;
 1/4 tsp. ground 1/8 tsp. salt; 1/8 tsp.
 coriander, 1/8 tsp. ground black
 ground black pepper (optional)
 pepper

METHOD: In a food processor or blender combine basil, 1/3 cup of
oil, cheese, nuts, and seasonings. Cover and process or blend until
nearly smooth, stopping and scraping sides as necessary, and adding
enough remaining oil until desired consistency. Makes about 1 cup.
To store, divide pesto into three portions. Place each portion into
small, airtight containers and refrigerate 1 to 2 days or freeze up
to 3 months. * NOTE: Any of these pestos can be made with commercially
available sweet basil.

BASIL BOUQUET

A cluster of basils is both decorative and functional. Snip a few leaves as needed. Each has a distinct flavor.

1. 'Purple Ruffles'--Sweet cinnamon and spice.

2. Variegated basil--Licorice and anise overtones.

3. Sweet basil--Tea and licorice,

4. 'Dark Opal'--Delicate hints of clove and vanilla.

5. Thai basil--Highly scented spicy anise and clove.

6. 'Spicy Globe'--Hints of citrus and mint.

7. Cinnamon basil--Soft cinnamon flavor.

Other fragrant basils include:

* 'Magical Michael'--Rich in sweet, fragrant oils.

* 'Mrs. Burns' lemon basil-Intense lemon.

* 'Siam Queen'--Anise and licorice.

* 'Genovese'--Well-rounded, not sweet.

* 'Red Rubin'--Subtle sweet scent.

* Lime basil--Hints of lime.

* African Blue'--Traces of tea and camphor.

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